What do I think works for skin care?
Patients ask me all the time what they can do for their skin. I always tell them, “If you want to spend a lot of time and money, buy face cream.” There is no end to the list of lotions and potions out there. As a busy surgeon and basic purist, I look for products that are tried and true, and routines that I know I can stick to. After decades as a plastic surgeon, this is where I landed.
Making skin care simple
Peptides are all the rage. So are minimally invasive procedures. Few do anything real.
In fact, I spend a lot of time watching patients “negotiate” with themselves in the mirror, trying to see the difference after they engaged in an expensive treatment or bought a $400 face cream. If you have to debate it, the result is not there.
What works
There is no question at this point that retinoids work. They work as powerful antioxidants and can reverse sun damage and aging.
Vitamin C is also one of the most effective molecules for general health and immune boost.
And finally, sunblock. You just can’t put a price on this.
What is the right dose of retinol? Vitamin C? How much sunblock do I need?
When purchasing retinol products, usually the debate is between something weak, that won’t work well, and something strong, that will fry you if you go outside. After an exhausting search, I decided to make my own retinol serum, and I found that happy place where it was effective but not overly potent. Personally, I don’t want to be red, peel, or answer to anyone about looking like a tomato. I have found that 5X is the right place for me (everyone is different, but this is generally good for most people), and I use it at night only.
During the day, I use a vitamin C serum that does not have the same sunlight concerns as the retinol. And then I put sunblock all over anyway (SPF 30 or above). This combination of vitamin C and retinol offers the best of both worlds, and staggering them allows each to work at its best time.
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Is sunblock really that necessary?
Have you seen the photos of truck drivers who let one half of their faces be in the sun every day? Have you? (Google “truck driver face”)
Yes, sunblock is your friend. It keeps your skin younger, decreases skin cancer (so it can save your life), and it also buffers and covers your other potions. Using a moisturizer that has sunblock built-in also helps hydrate your skin, which, let’s face it, could probably use the fluid.
